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I am on a fantastic journey, embracing life with everything I've got!

Tuesday, December 20, 2005

Waves!

Now THIS is the ocean I've been waiting patiently for, for the past six monthes!!!

Huge swells rolled into the Santa Barbara coastline today, and the surfers were out in force. Rod tells me tomorrow will bring the biggest. "Double overhead" is what they are called.

After work, I nearly ran down to the shore...and things had changed. Big time. For one thing, I smelled the ocean a lot stronger--and when I got to the bottom of The Thousand Steps (which are really about 100), there was a HUGE drop-off to the....rocks? Wait a minute. Had I lost my mind? Was I in a true alternate Universe? Didn't there used to be SAND at the bottom of these steps, only one foot down?

Luckily, a man was coming down the steps with his dog. I asked him about it and he told me, "Oh yeah, it's winter. We've lost about 3 feet of sand. You'll find lots of rocks and fossils in the winter."

Wow. I had no idea the depth of the beach would change! I am still such a "beginner" when it comes to living by the sea.

As I walked along the beach, the energy & sound of the bigger and stronger surf was raw...almost sexual. I felt invigorated in the same way. I watched the black silhouettes of surfers in wetsuits floating on the water...they waited during the peaceful lulls, then suddenly waves would arise out of nowhere--stark and silver against the periwinkle horizon. Then a surfer would appear on the crest...some rode long, long stretches before coming to a graceful close--others toppled over into the white foam as their wave crashed.

I wished I had both the means and the guts to learn this awesome sport....to be one with that ocean...but something tells me I'd be very guarded. Especially of my hands, which are now my livelihood. On second thought, I could be perfectly happy watching them from the shore!

The timing of the ocean's rambunctiousness couldn't have been more perfect. I've been thinking about my visit home...wondering if, once back among my clan and the people I grew up with, I wouldn't want to come back. But after this evening, I remembered the other lover I came out here to be close to...the Pacific.

I think about how cold and hollow last winter was--cringing against the bitter winds and having no one to go home to and cozy in with--and I know that I will be very content returning to spend winter in a warm, beautiful land.

6 Comments:

Blogger winter said...

This makes me miss the ocean again, already. Beautifully written, Lexie!

10:18 PM  
Blogger ~Just Michelle~ said...

You make me feel as though I'm right there with you!

I love you, Lexie!

*hug*

~M~

5:41 PM  
Blogger Sophie T. Mishap said...

You're a breath of fresh air. :)

Merry Christmas!

11:51 AM  
Blogger Melanie said...

You know that was an incredible day for waves! It was near dark when i finally got out there. The sound of the crashing waves just rocks my soul.

Yea this place is heaven. Thats why i am going to try and make it here!

lets go find some fossils!

Happy New Year!

4:36 AM  
Blogger redpig77 said...

Winter said it so well. I love the sound of the ocean and the waves crashing against the rocks and shore.

I too, felt that I was right there with you.

12:26 PM  
Blogger Rod said...

Sounds like you're hooked. I know the feeling.
Winter brings the big waves, takes a few feet of sand away, (it always comes back) and brings the extreme high and low tides. A lot of minus tides, which are great for exploring the tide pools. I'll take you to some of my favorites.
Maybe we'll even get you out surfing one of these days. We'll go out swimming with the dolphins first to get you used to the kelp. ;>D

11:55 PM  

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